Friends who
have visited me from Taiwan or North America always say to me that the extra
virgin olive oil we have in Greece smells really good, and after they sample
the olive oil with bread or vegetables, they tell me that my olive oil tastes
so good and not just smells good.
In fact Greek
olive oil is awesome but little known. Read the rest of this post and find out
why.
That’s right,
real extra virgin olive oil smells good, but the imported “extra virgin” olive
oils my visiting friends buy from their hometown supermarkets do not smell the
same. Well, the truth is that if it does
not smell good, it is probably blended with other types of oils or it is rancid
but is being sold as fresh extra virgin olive oil.
My blogger
friend, TaTsou, recently has been approached
by some olive farmers in Sitia, Crete who are seeking his
help in promoting premium quality olive oil abroad. TaTsou had served his community service in
lieu of military service in nearby town in Crete. He contacted me since I am also interested in
promoting Greek olive oil and especially after my own previous bad experience
of buying a bottle of so called Italian made “extra virgin” olive oil in a N.
American supermarket, after opening up the bottle the oil had a strange
smell. I feel compelled to share some
knowledge with readers about olive oil and especially the goodness of the Greek
olive oil. I am contemplating on
starting a separate blog that will cover various topics that are centered on
olive oil.
olive field in North Kynouria Βόρεια Κυνουρία |
I remember
seeing TV news of Greek farmers dumping produce on highways, but didn’t
understand what could have triggered such protests that could cause highway
congestions and public discontent.
The “potato
revolution” started from late February in northern Greece (the story was blogged
about here by the Tails
of Athens, and reported
here by the
Guardian), and after reading the details of the stories, I just realized that:
It costs Greek potato farmers about 20 Euro cents to produce one kilogram of
potatoes, but the wholesale middlemen buy them for not more than 15 Euro cents
per kilogram and get the crop to supermarkets where potatoes are sold for at
least 65 Euro cents per kilogram, so for decades the middlemen are the winners
but both consumers and farmers are the losers.
I feel it is
the right thing to do to help the Greek olive farmers since it will benefit
both consumers as well as olive farmers.
olive flowers can be seen in late spring |
My knowledge is
that this year, if I were to sell my excess olive oil (oil that I don’t need to
keep for my own family consumption) to the oil processing plant, I will be paid
only 2 Euro per kilogram by the processing plant, this is much less than it
costs me to produce the oil, namely expenses incurred for fertilizers, branch
trimming, maintenance of fields, and olive collection labor, oil extraction
fees. The oil processing plant in turn will
sell the oil to those packing companies which are large and famous, but they
mix up olive oils from different sources, despite this they can mark-up the
price and make huge profits. So it makes
sense to keep my excess oil to give as gifts to other families and friends who
have no olive farms or are in economic crisis due to austerity measures.
For small scale oil producers this fact (making no profits) does not matter so much
economically, but for the full-time farmers with many olive trees, they may suffer losses after counting so many
kilograms of olive oil.
Greece has by
far the largest per capita consumption of olive oil worldwide, over 26 liters
per person per year; Spain and Italy, around 14 (from http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olive_oil under the subtitle
"global consumption"), and because Greeks consume so much olive oil
per person, it follows that they want to produce the best olive oil for
themselves. It is very logical that one
would want to make the best product for his own consumption, as it turns out
Greece has the “highest percentage” of extra virgin olive oil production in the
world, about 80% of olive oil produced in Greece is extra virgin, but with such
high quality production, the quantity is compromised, and this is one of the reasons
why Greece does not have the largest tons of olive oil output, another reason I
believe is related to demand and marketing, if Greeks don’t know where to sell
their good olive oil, why should they produce more?
What is the definition of extra virgin olive oil?
Before
defining “extra virgin olive oil”, one must first understand the definition of
“virgin olive oil”.
“Virgin olive
oil” is the oil obtained from the fruit of the olive tree solely by mechanical
or other physical means under conditions, particularly thermal conditions, that
do not lead to alterations in the oil, and which have not undergone any
treatment other than washing, decantation, centrifugation and filtration. The acidity of virgin olive oil is less than
2%.
“Extra virgin
olive oil” comes from virgin olive oil and contains no more than 0.8% acidity;
extra virgin olive oil has a superior taste.
I have my own
olive farms in 3 different places and last harvest season (winter 2010-2011) we had
olives crushed and processed at 40 degree Celsius to produce our olive oil, but
this season (winter 2011-2012) we cold-pressed our olives and were able to produce olive oil within 0.25% acidity (much lower
acidity than the 0.8% defined by the IOC i.e. International Olive Council), so
I guess it could be called “superior extra virgin olive oil” but the output was
compromised, the benefit though is that the oil smells and tastes really
fantastic.
Extra virgin
olive oil accounts for less than 10% of oil in many producing countries; but the
percentage is far higher in the Mediterranean countries with Greece: about 80%
of olive oil produced is extra virgin, Italy: about 45%, and Spain: about
30%. If Greece were to produce less
percentage of extra virgin olive oil, the total output of olive oil production
will be increased. Besides, many Greek
farms are unattended for, so full production potential has not been
reached. But now with the unemployment
rate for young people in Greece being nearly 50%, I assume many young people
will go back to till the land and start rural life.
Definition of lower-grade olive oils
For olive oil
classification of lower-grade types, which most Greeks have little knowledge
about since they produce high-end quality olive oil, please go to the link
below, it is an official document link to the olive oil classification by the
IOC:
http://www.foodlabellingreview.gov.au/internet/foodlabelling/submissions.nsf/lookupSubmissionAttachments/1ATAN-85Z33Y20100601105421ASKW/$FILE/655a.pdf
http://www.foodlabellingreview.gov.au/internet/foodlabelling/submissions.nsf/lookupSubmissionAttachments/1ATAN-85Z33Y20100601105421ASKW/$FILE/655a.pdf
What
is the definition of “first cold pressing”?
Referring to the Reference area at the end of this post,
here is the excerpt from the EU document:
(a) the
indication "first cold pressing" may appear only for virgin or extra
virgin olive oils obtained at a temperature below 27 °C from a first mechanical
pressing of the olive paste by a traditional extraction system using hydraulic
presses;
(b) the indication "cold extraction" may appear
only for virgin or extra virgin olive oils obtained at a temperature below 27
°C by percolation or centrifugation of the olive paste
The
health benefits of olive oil
This Mayo clinic link
explains some of the health benefits of olive oil http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/food-and-nutrition/AN01037
The main type of fat found in all kinds of olive oil is monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs). MUFAs are actually considered a healthy dietary fat. If your diet emphasizes unsaturated fats, such as MUFAs and polyunsaturated fats (PUFAs), instead of saturated fats and trans-fats, you may gain certain health benefits.
MUFAs and PUFAs may help lower your risk of heart disease by improving related risk factors. For instance, MUFAs may lower your total cholesterol and low-density lipoprotein cholesterol levels. MUFAs may also help normalize blood clotting.
healthy diet includes using olive oil instead of butter in spaghetti |
How
to use olive oil in cooking
When I first came to Greece,
I was still used to stir-fry vegetables (and sometimes meat too) by using other
types of oils, and was using olive oil occasionally for salad and dipping
bread. Back then my in-laws were
wondering why I was buying other types of oils from supermarkets when we
ourselves have over-supply of good quality olive oil.
feta cheese with olive oil |
After learning the potential
health concerns related to high temperature cooking in frying pans, I started
to fast-boil vegetables (heating water to its boiling point and dumping in
vegetables to cook for a short time) then after removing water just add salt
and olive oil for taste, sometimes chopped-up garlic are also added for more
intense taste. I also boil spaghettini /
capellini and after removing water my kids really love to eat them with the
combination of extra virgin olive oil and Kikkoman soy sauce (not advertising
for this brand but this is the only good soy sauce imported that I can find in
Greek supermarkets).
Greek people leave their vegetables
(such as cauliflower or broccoli) boiling for too long, after removing water
they add salt, lemon juice, and olive oil for taste, but I think for best
nutritional values, the boiling time should be reduced.
For Taiwanese, they should
re-think whether traditional stir-frying is a healthy way of cooking, maybe
they can reduce stir-frying frequencies and sometimes use fast-boiling cooking
method. If you still insist on high
temperature stir-frying or deep-frying, then blended lower grade olive oil or
other types of oils are more suitable for your purpose because extra virgin
olive oil loses its nutritional values and burns more easily on high
temperature cooking.
boiled beetroots with olive oil & vinegar, garlic mashed potatoe |
Finding
alternative transportation means for olive oil
I hope the future Greek
government or some private competitors to the ELTA Hellenic Post will soon provide
in-expensive shipment, efficient transportation means to boost our olive oil
export potential.
Olive
oil is liquid gold
Everyone knows what solid
gold is, but not everyone knows what liquid gold is, well olive oil was called “liquid
gold” by ancient Greek poet Homer.
Considering the main color
of olive oil (some are golden while others may be greenish) and more
importantly the health benefits of it, indeed Homer was right!
Thinking
of buying direct from farmers?
Different region and
different variety of olive trees may give slightly different taste of olive
oil. So I do not recommend one over the
other as taste is always depended on personal preference As a matter of fact, I like to try different olive
oils produced from various trees and from different regions, so sometimes I
swap my oils with friends.
TaTsou's farmer friend's "mountain" brand olive oils |
For general enquiry of
TaTsou’s farmer friend’s olive oil, write to this address lasithi.olive.oil AT gmail.com
For the location of Sitia
(The island of Crete is located on the lowest part of the map, and Sitia is on
the most eastern part of Crete) see this link:
For general enquiry of my olive oil, which will be
commercialized in the near future, write to this address oliveoilftt AT gmail.com.
my olive oils in a gift box |
For more olive photos, click here.
References:
1. Article 5 (a) in the text of this EU document (EUR-Lex-32002R1019)
defines the labeling standard for “first cold pressing”
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